Glacier Hiking Is Not for Wimps
I knew a glacier hike was going to be part of our trip through Iceland, but knowing you’re going to do it and actually standing at the base of Sólheimajökull getting ready to strap crampons to your boots are two very different things.
I wasn’t entirely sure what I was getting myself into, but I was excited to find out.
Sólheimajökull
Sólheimajökull is one of the glaciers along Iceland’s south coast and a popular place for glacier hiking because of its proximity to the Ring Road. It’s about a two-hour drive from Reykjavik, making it an easy day trip from the capital. I was on an organized tour with my cousin Kim, so this was one of the stops along our journey.
This is definitely an experience you want to do with a guide, and ours was great. Arctic Adventures was the company that led our glacier hike, and I would highly recommend them. We spent about four hours on the hike and covered almost four miles. The guides were committed to everyone’s safety, which was quite reassuring when you’re walking around on a glacier.
What surprised me most about the glacier was that it wasn’t just a huge stretch of white ice. There were areas of blue ice mixed with dark volcanic ash, along with cracks, ridges, and all kinds of interesting formations.
Crampons, Ice Axes & a Few New Skills
Safety is quite important if you plan on hiking a glacier. Having the proper equipment and clothing is a must, especially when it comes to footwear. You’ll need stiff winter hiking boots that the crampons can fit securely around without slipping off.
If you don’t have the proper boots, you may be able to rent them. They were available when we went, as long as they had your size. I wouldn’t leave that to chance, though, since you can’t do the hike without crampons.
Before we headed out, our guide showed us how to walk in crampons. It wasn’t difficult, but you really had to stomp your feet down to get the spikes firmly into the ice. This was especially important on the ice steps and steeper inclines. If you didn’t get a good grip, there was a pretty good chance you were going to slip and fall—and probably not very gracefully.
I didn’t use the ice axe nearly as much as I relied on my crampons, but when I did need it, I had to swing it firmly enough to get the pick into the ice and use it to help pull myself up. We were also taught how to carry it properly, holding it by the pick end, kind of like the handle of a cane. That way, if we happened to fall, the sharp end wasn’t pointing toward us. Definitely something worth remembering when you’re carrying an ice axe around.
Once we had all our gear on and the crampons strapped to our boots, it was time to head out onto the glacier. Taking those first few steps onto Sólheimajökull was one of those “I can’t believe I’m climbing a glacier in Iceland” moments.
Sólheimajökull is sometimes called “The Shrinking Glacier” because it is slowly retreating, and as the ice has melted, a lagoon has formed at its base. It’s strange to think that an area now covered by water was once part of the glacier itself. You wouldn’t notice much difference from one day to the next, but from year to year, the changes can be significant.
Our guide told us that the glacier is always moving—even while we were walking on it. It moves only a few centimeters each day, so thankfully, it wasn’t anything we could actually feel. The enormous mass of ice slowly flows downhill under its own weight, constantly shifting and reshaping the glacier. Cracks can open, formations can change, and the surface itself can look different over time.
It really puts into perspective just how much the landscape can change. If I ever go back and climb Sólheimajökull again, I may not be walking on quite the same glacier I remember.
Yes... I Needed a Minute
The guide did such a great job of balancing the pace of the hike with the abilities of the group. We needed to keep moving because we had to get back before it started getting dark, but we never felt rushed. If someone needed to stop, catch their breath, or take a minute, we stopped. Yes...I needed a minute. More than once.
There was someone in our group who wasn’t able to complete the hike. Our guide called for another guide to come to us, and we waited until they arrived so she could be safely guided back down. I really appreciated how they handled the situation. There was no pressure for her to keep going, and they made sure she didn’t have to make her way back on her own.
Hiking on a glacier definitely takes more effort than walking the same distance on a regular trail. You’re dealing with uneven ice, inclines, ice steps, and crampons on your feet—and all that stomping to get those spikes firmly into the ice took more out of me than I expected. I definitely found myself a little more out of breath at times, but I kept going, finished the hike, and felt pretty darn proud of myself when I did.
Worth Every Step
The ice, the views, the challenge and the laughs made every step worth it. Would I do it again? Absolutely. Would I be a little more prepared for how much work walking in crampons can be? Also absolutely. It wasn’t easy, at least not for me, but I’m really glad I did it.
Been There. Climbed a glacier. Lived to tell about it. Loved That.